After last season’s nautical jaunt, Max Mara looked to 1930s Berlin for inspiration with its fall-winter 2016 collection presented during Milan Fashion Week. Citing female figures in the world of art, film and textiles, the Italian brand showcased its signature wool coats with a punchy flair. When not in its iconic camel hue, the coat gets an update, adorned with glittering paillettes or coated in plastic.
For sweaters–cashmere, shearlings and nubby washed alpaca brings some texture. Long leather gloves whether worn with a suit jacket or striped sweater adds another dimension to the look. Finishing the ensemble, the Max Mara woman wears the Whitney bag in bright shades of yellow, green or purple and chunky heeled oxfords.
Etro’s fall-winter 2016 show took inspiration from the 90s with Veronica Etro referencing her university years in London as a specific reference point. The result was a collection that was grunge meets boho and biker chic without losing that Etro effortlessness. A long fluid silhouette is embraced for fall with oversized sweaters layered over maxi skirts or moto jackets with exotic prints and worn over a breezy shift dress.
The color palette is autumnal, but never dull with rich burgundies and moody grays. The major prints of the season were florals, stripes and plaids in miniature and large scales. The Etro woman accessorizes with a long scarf, velvet Mary Jane shoes and fall’s new bags–a flattened bucket bag, messenger bag or boxy mini.
For Moschino’s fall-winter 2016 show, Jeremy Scott sent out a parade of biker chicks clad in leather and frilly, jewel toned skirts. A riff off the moto jacket made way for long dresses, peplum waists and chain adorned gowns. Logomania was in full effect with the Moschino name branding everything from hats to boots and t-shirts. Denim was distressed and ripped, showing this biker girl isn’t afraid to get down and dirty.
Then about half way through the show–a shift. Scott showed prints featuring cigarettes and match sticks with evening wear soon taking hold. Gowns looked like they had just been through a house fire with singed holes and blackened edges. The designer cited inspiration from ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’, where 15th century Florentines set sinful items aflame. With the use of smoke machines, models looked like they were on fire with vapor filling the air.
Miuccia Prada continued where the fall preview in January left off with Prada’s fall-winter 2016 show presented during Milan Fashion Week. The Italian designer expanded a nautical theme to include more ladylike styling. Prada focused on form-fitting silhouettes using corsets or belts over coats to create a bell shape.
Wearing sailor hats and cross-body bags, the Prada woman traverses the fashion landscape in rich brocades, fur and velvet. Prada worked with artist Christophe Chemin on a selection of prints, depicting jumbled scenes, full of color. The footwear touched upon the nautical theme once more—laced up boots with anchors on the heel or platform brogues with gold details echoing a ship’s exterior added another layer.